Suit for middle class.



Company ABRIS-LUX and its founder Igor Nikiforov have set for itself an ambitious problem to give to the Russian sewing industry of a man's suit the well-known Italian glamour.

After Institute of light industry Nikiforov has asked to work for sewing association "Salute", supervised over shop in 200 persons. In 1991 has left on the fifth garment factory and after it held a post of the chief executive of company "" specializing on tailoring of man's suits. Nikiforov considers as a turning point 1995 when the company has received from the Moscow government the order for tailoring of suits to veterans to participants of anniversary Parade of the Victory. on sales even has eclipsed "Bolshevik". But shareholders haven't supported innovations. And I have understood that it is time to begin own business. Has enclosed personal savings nearby $50 000 and in 1997 has created ABRIS-LUX, the businessman tells.

Parades have helped

Orders were accepted by workers ABRIS-LUX, and sent away them in "Akro" where Nikiforov continued to work. So in the beginning it was possible to minimize expenses for manufacture. According to Nikiforova, some first years all profit was invested in development. But when in 2000 ABRIS-LUX has won the tender for tailoring of suits for the next anniversary Parade of the Victory, Nikiforov has understood that has come to create time own manufacture. The equipment from the ruined Soviet factories cost not much have kept within in $45 000. The result of has justified. Three and a half thousand veteran suits have sent away to individual measures. The order has allowed us to fulfill technology of realization of the big corporate orders in the shortest terms, Nikiforov remembers. Then there were some more big state orders, and behind them large corporate clients were tightened also.

In 2004 we held the tender for manufacture of clothes for the personnel of a retail network which with the big separation has won ABRIS-LUX, Vyacheslav Harchenko, the senior manager of management on development of a retail network of Alpha bank tells. in this time we have changed clothes of the personnel of all Moscow branches and 150 regional. Quality completely suits us. The next year we have ordered more than 3000 complete sets on 8 million rbl..
A man's suit the most complicated product constructed on subtleties. Nine of 10 men in a suit are dressed incorrectly, Nikiforov assures. Our technology of tailoring on a joint of industrial production with use of secrets haute couture allows to hold the cost price of a ready suit at low level. Now the order price starts from 10 000 rbl. and depends on the fabric chosen by the client, director ABRIS-LUX shares.
Yury Korostylev, the head of department of the finance of the government of Moscow, puts on in ABRIS-LUX five years and says that has never doubted a choice. I don't pursue a brand me important that the suit was convenient and beautiful, answered a fashion and considered my wishes, and in ABRIS-LUX to my whims listen.

Course on availability

In the first half of the year 2008 turn ABRIS-LUX has made 20 million rbl., profit 2,5 million rbl. that has appeared on 7 % above results of 2007 Have bought the newest equipment, have invited the Italian cutter from house Brioni and have conceived to open in capital a network of salons by request of the individual suits accessible to middle class, on the average at the price about 1000 euros.

Individual tailoring can't cost cheaper 3000-4000 euros, Ferutdin Zakirov, the owner of boutique Europe Exclusive is surprised. I heard that experience of carrying over of industrial technologies in manufacture of piece suits is in Russia, but results didn't see. While, except Europeans, Japanese have learned to sew, they very rested, and they managed to adopt at Italians skill. But on training it is necessary not less than 10-15 years.
In Hong Kong for three-four days can sew a qualitative suit taking into account all wishes. If in Moscow there will be a salon offering adequate services, it could be interesting, the general director of the Moscow jeweler factory Denis Adamsky admits.

According to Nikiforova, manufacture re-equipment has managed in 5 million rbl.: To the middle of 2009 we planned to open five points, but crisis has interfered with plans. There is a probability that the investment program will brake a little. Though means for development are. But in crisis people are less spent for clothes.
Made-to-measure (the personalized order with one trying on) many known man's brands (from Brioni to Kiton) offer. It is very small business on turns the bonus market. On it the authority of a brand is important. So, in my opinion, it business, tells Anush Gasparjan, commercial director Fashion Consalting Group.
Quantity of orders a miscellaneous depending on a season and stability in the market. But business, in our opinion, perspective and interesting, assure of the Moscow sewing company Grande e Piccolo.

In Petersburg "Burzhuine" who next year is going to enter the Moscow market, the quantity of orders for nine months 2008 has increased by 80 %, and half repeated references. On our statistics, three quarters of men can't pick up the suitable ready suit, even known western brands, the director of "Burzhuina" Evgenie Kachaev speaks.

If the project with salons has to be braked because of crisis, I am assured, we realize its one year later, Nikiforov speaks. In first one and a half-two years, by our calculations, the number of orders will fluctuate within 500 suits on all five points in this case we leave on self-support for 15-18 months, at less favorable outcome on return of investments will leave two years.

Rimma Avshalumova
10/27/2008, 203 (2225)


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